- Turfgrass Pest Management (Category 3A)
Care of Turfgrass
Chapter 2
- Most people realize the importance of turf as ground cover, and for erosion
control. Few understand the ecological benefits of a healthy, vigorous stand
of grass.
- Like all plants, grass releases the oxygen we breathe. The extensive fibrous
root system of turf holds soil in place, and adds organic material. Pollutants,
dust, and other particles in snow and rain are filtered by grass plants reducing
leaching into the groundwater. Finally, turf stands are one of the most efficient
biological systems for breaking down pesticides. These features clearly make
healthy turfgrass more than purely an aesthetic concern.
- Non-pest disorders as well as pests injure turf. In fact, most turfgrass
injury is due to poor growing conditions that occur naturally or are created
by maintenance practices. Environmental and cultural disorders include:
- Improper species selection
- Lack of air movement
- Too hot, dry or wet weather
- Too much or not enough of some nutrients.
- -Soil copaction
-Competition with the roots of other plants.
-Excessive wear or traffic.
-Too much thatch
- - Improper height of cut.
- Too much or too little sunlight
- Poorly maintained mowers.
- Improper irrigation.
Note: when non-pest disorders are not a problem for turf, rarely are pests
damaging.
- Many types of organisms are pests of turfgrass:
- Animals including moles and insects
- Weeds.
- Diseases including fungi and nematodes
To best manage pests, be aware that pest problems are often a result,
rather than the cause of, poor quality turf.
- For turf to grow well, correct amounts of water, nutrients, and sunlight
are needed. When one or more climatic or soil conditions do not fall within
acceptable ranges, turfgrass becomes stressed. Weakened turf may thin and
be easily invaded by weeds. Stressed grass plants are less able to combat
and recover from insect or disease injury
- The greatest influence on turf health and quality is water. Grass plants
need water to grow and maintain tissues, and to cool themselves through transpiration.
When water is limited, turf growth stops, transpiration decreases, and grass
plants heat up. Eventually water-stressed turf browns-out and goes dormant.
- As with all types of plants, turfgrass species are adapted to certain climatic
regions. The condition that most limits where grasses are found is their tolerance
for cold temperatures.
Cool season grasses: Kentucky bluegrass; perennial ryegrass; fine fescues;
tall
fescue; bentgrass
Transition grasses: tall fescue; zoysiagrss; bermudagrass
Warm season grasses: zoysiagrass; bermudagrass; St. Augustine grass;
Centepedegrass; bahiagrass.
- The northern third of the United States, including Michigan, is a cool/cold
grass adaptation zone. Shoot qrowth is greatest in cool-season grasses when
temperatures are between 60-75˚ F. Maximum root growth occurs when soil
temperatures ranges between 50-65˚F. Cool-season grasses brown-out, but
survive the winter and hoe periods in a dormant condition.
12. When temperatures are beyond the optimal of 50-75˚F, the entire grass
plant is affected. Respiration ― the
use of oxygen during the processes of growth and maintenance ― increases
with temperature. Conversely the process of making food, photsynthesis, declines
with high temperature. Increased plant activity with decreased food production
creates a shortage of energy in the plant. Limited energy then is available
to produce roots and shoots, maintain tissues and fight pests.
- All plants require sunlight for photosynthesis, but preference in the amount
of sunlight differs with plant species. In generl, grasses do best when grown
on sunny and partially-sunny sites.
- Turf grown without adequate light is shallow-rooted, thin, and more prone
to diseases. In fact, shade itself is sometimes considered a turf disorder.
- Soil type influences the level of moisture, air, and nutrients available
to grass plant roots. While soil requires many years to develop, it is easily
destroyed by disturbances such as construction grading.
- Soil is comoposed of inorganic particles (minerals) and organic
matter (remains of organisms), water, air, and soil organisms.
- An ideal soil contains 50% organic and inorganic solid particles, and 50%
open space (pores). Soil pores are filled with water and air. The percentage
of pores occpied by water depends upon soil type, drainage pattern, and time
of the year.
- The inorganic part of soil is made up of sand, silt, and clay particles.
Soil texture is defined by the percentage of large, medium and small
particles making up the soil.
- Sand is relatively large-sized mineral particles. When packed together
sand particles typically resist compaction and may large pores are created.
Because large-sized particles hold a limited amount of water and nutrients,
sandy soils are relatively unfertile, but drain well.
- Clay particles have the greatest ability to hole nutrients and water, but
compact tightly together. Clay soils are known for their density and "wetness,"
and lack of air-filled pores. While nutrients will not readily leach out of
clay soils, they may be held too tightly to be absorbed by roots.
- An ideal soil, which has good nutrient and water-holding capacity as well
as plenty of air-filled pores, is composed of all sized particles.
- Soil pH is a measure of soil acidity. Most turfgrass grows adequately
in soil with a pH from 5.0 to 7.5.
- Soil pH greatly affects the availability of nutrients to plants. Plants
grown in soil with a pH far from the 6.0-7.0 range can be deficient in certain
nutrients. Phosphorus and iron are elements the will form insoluble compounds
that roots cannot absorb. Add lime to raise soil pH, and sulfur to lower pH.
As with all soil adjustments, never alter soil pH without first testing
the soil.
- The percentage of clay particles and organic matter determines the nutrient-holding
capacity of soil. Nutrients in a soil are in constant flux, becoming more
or less available as soil conditions change. You must understand the function
of the 16 nutrients and determine which needs to be supplemented for each
turf stand .
- Remember, even when you suspect that injured turf is showing symptoms of
nutrient deficiency, soil analysis is the only way to be certain.
- There are three primary nutrients required by plants in relatively large
amounts: nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P or P2O5) and potassium
(K or K2O). Micronutrients, such as iron and sulfur, are elements
used by plants in relatively small amounts.
- Compared to other nutrients nitrogen is used in the largest quantity by
turf. Dry turf clippings are about 5% nitrogen by weight. Turf deficient in
nitrogen may have poor color, decreased elasticity, and is less able to compete
with weeds. Nitrogen is oftern unavailable to turf roots because it leaches
through the soil rapidly and is used by soil organisms, or simply has not
been supplied. It is no surprise that turfgrass responds more to nitrogen
applications that any other element.
- Periodic applications of nitrogen fertilizer are necessary to maintain good
quality turf. However, too much nitrogen results in a thin root system relative
to top growth, increased disease, and reduced drought and wear tolerance.
Also, nitrogen fertilizer can contaminate surface and ground waters. Do not
over-apply nitrogen. Do not exceed a rate of one pound of actual nitrogen
per 1,000 square feet in a single application.
- Phosphorus is important for root development, maturation, and seed
production. Since it is practically immobile in soil, few soils are deficient
in phosphorus. Turf deficient in phosphorus shows purpling of grass blades.
This symptom can be confused with the color change caused by cold weather.
- Phosphorus is strongly absorbed to soil particles and so can be carried
into surface waters with eroding soil. Except for newly-established turf stands,
phosphorous applications should be limited without evidence of deficiency.
A soil test of 50 pounds of phosphorus per acre is adequate for turf growth.
- Turf uses potassium in quantities second only to nitrogen. This element
is important for rooting, and wear and climatic stress tolerance. Turf deficient
in potassium has yellowing and dead blade tips. These symptoms are rarely
obvious, however. Even though the level of potassium in a soil is high, it
may not be available for absorption by turf root. Therefore, routine application
of potassium fertilizer at a ratio of 3:2 (3 parts nitrogen to 2 parts potassium)
is beneficial in many situations. Potassium application will not result in
dramatic growth. Do not interpret lack of green-up as a lack of benefit.
- Micronutrients are elements used by turf in relatively small amounts. They
include manganese, boron, copper, and zinc. Typically, micronutrients required
by turf are naturally present in Michigan soils in adequate amounts. High
soil pH can "bind up" micronutrients so that they are unavailable
to roots. Iron is a micronutrient commonly deficient in plants growing in
alkaline soils (pH greater than 7.0). Iron-deficient grass blades have blotchy
yellow patches, or are white. Application of iron fertilizer provides temporary
green-up of turf. Since the deficiency is due to soil alkalinity, long-term
treatment requires modifying the soil pH.
- One teaspoon of soil can contain a billion bacteria, a million fungi, and
several thousand algae. Fortunately, most of these organisms improve soil
conditions for plants growth. As they feed, soil organisms break sown organic
matter and release nutrients. Pesticides can also be broken down by soil organisms.
Burrowing creatures aerate the soil and increase drainage.
- Turf managers often battle disorders that are a resuld of poorly-established
turf. Prevent chronic turf problems by carefully selecting and installing
turfgrass.
- There are dozens of varieties of Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass
and fine fescue commercially available for planting in Michigan. It is crucial
to select grass species or varieties best suited to the growing conditions
and planned used of the site.
- Grass species and varieties differ in their apperarance, wear tolerance,
and maintenance requirements. They also differ in their susceptibility to
damaging pests and tolerance of poor growing conditions. No turfgrass variety
will meet all of your needs, so carefully consider which turf features are
most important for each site.
- Turf stands made up of several grass types have greater genetic variation,
and so better resist pests and adapt to different growing conditions.
- For this reason, grass seed is commonly marketed as blends of varieties
or mixes of grass species. For instance, blends or mixes may contain a shade
tolerance grass that will take over where the dominant grass dies out. Species
mixtures are more adaptable, but are not as uniform, as blends.
- Consider using seed of fescue and ryegrass varieties containing fungi endophytes.
These are naturally-occurring fungi that are harmless to grass plants, but
repel or kill chewing insects. Make use of this natural control whenever possible,
but be aware that endophyte fungi can be harmful if eaten by livestock.
- Avoid or reduce future turf problems by following proper planting procedures.
Preparing a site for a new turf stand requires planning, materials, and labor:
- Eliminate weedy perennial grasses.
- Rough grade the area to be planted so that it has the desired slope and
a uniform surface.
- If needed, amend the soil to improve drainage or the availability of nutrients.
- Analyze the soil and adjust soil pH or nutrients if needed.
- - Plow, rototill, disc, or otherwise work the soil to a depth of at least
6 inches.
- Remove stones and debris. Check for buried rocks and other debris, and for
adequate top soil.
- Smooth grade the area. The surface must be free of high and low spots. It
is difficult and expensive to correct drainage problems after turf establishment.
- Apply starter fertilizer and rake into the soil. Remember to base your selection
of preplant fertilizer on soil analsis.
- Plant seed, sod or vegetative material. In Michigan it is best to plant
seed in late summer. Lightly rake to cover seeds. Mulch with weed-free straw
or peat.
- Water newly-planted materials thoroughly.
- Be certain to properly care for newly-planted grass. Even the best planting
materials and procedures will not succeed will not succeed without post-planting
care.
- The amount and frequency of watering depends upon weather conditions. Check
new turf regularly so that adjustments in watering can be made before turf
becomes stressed. Keep new strands moist but not wet. Decrease the frequency
and amounts of irrigation as seedlings begin to develop.
- Mow as soon as new turf grows past the desired height. Always keep mower
blades sharp and properly adjusted to make clean cuts. Dull blades may pull
up seedlings, or make ragged cuts which slows healing and may encourage disease
infection.
- New stands benefit from fertilization a couple of weeks after seedlings
emerge or new roots develop. Nitrogen fertilizer should be applied at a low
rate (1/2 pound N per 1,000 square feet). Include potassium since it is particularly
beneficial to establishing turf plants. To avoid burning soft, new grass plants,
water fertilizer in immediately after application.
- Weeds are likely to invade establishing turf stands, but new grass plants
are tender and have sparse root systems. Avoid exposing young grass plants
to herbicides or other pesticides. Use other methods like pulling weeds and
mowing until the turf is well-established. If pesticides must be used, check
the label for use on newly-established turf.
- Maintaining turf is often the greatest landscape cost. Surprisingly little
time and forethought is given to this task. Depending upon species, use and
landscape importance,turfgrass requires:
- watering
- mowing
- fertilizing
- aerating
- dethatching
- pest management
48.When developing a turf management program, remember there is no benefit
to managing turf at a level of visual or wear quality above that required
for its use. Neither the aesthetic value nor utility of roadside grasses would
be improved through intensive mowing, fertilizing, or irrigation.
- During dry periods there may not be enough rainfall to maintain actively
growing turf. Supplying the right amount of water is not simple. Research
shows that an average of 40% of irrigated water exceeds turf needs. Too much
water is just as damaging to turf as is drought. So, how much water should
be applied to turf? Ther are no simple answers. Learn the turfs water requirements
and consider site conditions.
- The amount of water used by turf is measured as evapotranspiration—water
lost by evaporation plus the water used in transpiration. When the amount
of water lost due to evapotransiration is greater than the amount turf roots
absorb, wilt and stress occurs.
- In general, turf requires a total of one inch of water per week from rainfall,
irrigation or both. Most sources recommend applying water once a week during
the early morning hours. But, researchers found this irrigation method can
increase disease or cause turf to dry out and become stressed. During hot,
droughty periods turf may better benefit from daily, light (1/5-2/5")
afternoon waterings Since this practice will not deliver a full inch of water
per week, regularly check the moisture of deeper soil and apply additional
water when necessary.
- Obviously, turf cannot properly be watered using an automatic irrigation
system set once during the growing season!
- Though mowing is one of the most costly maintenance procedures, it often
becomes a routine practice that is not evaluated or adjusted. Good mowing
practices at preferred heights of cut generates dense, uniform, vigorous turf.
A general rule of thumb is to remove no more than one-third of the grass blade
per mowing. Cutting turf too short may scalp the plants and damage the crowns,
and reduce vigor. Thin or injured turf encourages weed and other pests. Conserve
water in turf during hot,dry weather by raising the height of cut and mowing
during cooler hours of the day.
- Grass clippings are routinely removed from low-cut, high-maintenance stands
to improve appearance and texture. Clippings are also routinely removed from
‘ordinary’ grass stands with the misbelief that this practice prevents excessive
thatch build-up. As clipping are removed. And, grass clippings should not
be overlooked as a significant source of nutrients.
- One year’s worth of degrading clippings provide 4 pounds of nitrogen, 1
pound of phosphorus, and 2 pounds of potassium per 1,000 square feet. When
clippings are removed, fertilization must be increased by 25-50%.
- Set a clear objective when planning to fertilize turf. Consider the species/variety’s
nutrient preferences, and stresses affecting the turf. If the management goal
is to promote growth, than nitrogen applications are warranted. Medium to
high-quality turf requires fertilizing each season. However, roadside turf
used for erosion control may require little or no fertilization.
- Many types of liquid and solid fertilizers are available for use on turf.
Characteristics:
Water-soluble. Nutrients are readily available to truf roots and provide
a quick response.
Slow release (slow-soluble) fertilizers release nutrients over time.
They are more expensive, but fewer applications at higher rates are possible
with less chance of burn.
Synthetic fertilizers have compounds produced artificially by humans.
They can be slow or quick release.
Organic fertilizers: The nutrients are part of naturally-formed compounds
and are released over time.
Fertilizer analysis is the ration of actual nitrogen (N), phosphorus
(as P2O5), and potassium ( as K2O) in complete
fertilizer. A 21-4-8 fertilizer contains 21% nitrogen, 4% P2O5,
and 8% K2O.
- Fertilizer burn usually occurs with high rates of soluble fertilizer, especially
when applied to frozen ground, onto wet foliage, or during hot weather. Injury
may be restricted to grass blades, but severe burn can damage roots and kill
grass plants.
- To prevent turf injury when fertilizing:
- Do not apply fertilizer when turf is wet or stressed.
- Apply fertilizer evenly.
- Do not spill fertilizer on turf.
- Use granulated or pelleted fertilizer rather than pulverized
- Water-in soluble fertilizers immediately after application. Use insoluble,
organic forms of nitrogen.
- Apply a maximum of 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet per application.
- Compacted and heavy clay soils have less air and a hard surface that drains
poorly. Lack of air, beneficial organisms and drainage all contribute to poor
turf quality.
- Holes can be made in compacted soils with mechanical aerators. Aeration
increases the movement of air in the soil and improves drainage. Machines
that remove cores form the are generally more efficient aerators than those
that spike or slit the soil.
- A layer of thatch exists in most turf stands between the green vegetation
and the soil surface. Thatch is composed of tightly intermingled living and
dead stems, leaves and roots. A thin thatch layer reduces soil compaction,
moderates soil temperature, and reduces evaporation.
- Too much thatch, however, restricts water and air movement into the soil,
and may encourage pests. High nitrogen fertilizer accelerates thatch production.
Because soil organisms break down thatch, pesticide use may also contribute
to thatch build-up.
- Practices that relieve soil compaction also help break down thatch. Vigorous
hand-raking will remove thatch on small turf areas. Dethatching machines that
cut out chunks of thatch are used on larger areas. Processing that debris
back into the soil will improve turf quality and decrease thatch production.
- Turf grasses are sun-loving plants, and generally do best in full to partial
sun. Some grasses are more tolerant of shade than others:
- Satisfactory: rough bluegrass, fine fescue
- Fair: tall fescue, perennial ryegrass
- Poor: Kentucky bluegrass
- In addition to not meeting the sunlight requirements of grass, there are
two ways shade injures turf. Turf shaded by trees and shrubs often suffers
from drought. Turf roots must compete with tree and shrub roots for water
and nutrients. Also, the canopies of large plants catch moisture before it
lands on the turf below. In contrast, turf shaded by buildings and hills remains
too wet because of reduced wind and sun exposure. High humidity in these conditions
favor turf diseases.
There are several ways to increase light intensity and air movement for the
benefit of turfgrass:
- Prune lower branches and thin crowns of trees.
- Plant shade-tolerant grass varieties in the shade of buildings.
- Do not over-water. Shaded turf remains wet an relatively long time.
- Reduce the fertilization rate to avoid pushing reduced-vigor turf, and lessen
disease development.
- Use commercial fans in microclimates that cannot be easily altered but turf
coverage is important, i.e., golf course greens.
- Plant shade-loving ground covers where turfgrass will not thrive.